Shenzhen
Shenzhen will probably surprise you. People from the west have usually never heard of it. Hong Kong media tell you it’s the most dangerous place in China and the Taiwanese and Japanese think it’s some poor cousin of Shanghai.
Shenzhen is actually a city of some 10 million people located on the mainland right next door to Hong Kong. It is the wealthiest city in China paying the highest average salaries. It’s a very new city, 25 years old this year, and was the first city in China to be allowed open up it’s economy.
After 25 years there are now a few true Shenzheners, people born and raised here, but most people are from some place else, a lot from Sichuan, Fujian, Hunan and north China. The weather, opportunities and relative freedoms attract people here.
This mix of people makes it a friendly place to be. It is also a big influence on the great mix of foods available in the restaurants of Shenzhen.
Proximity to Hong Kong adds a few extra freedoms not common in China like foreign newpapers and brands and it’s really easy to go into Hong Kong any time to pick things up that you just can’t get in China.
The nightlife is really cool. It’s very relaxed with no door policy or anything like that. Most bars stay open very late or until the last person leaves. Crowds are friendly and mixed (Chinese and Western).
There’s more and more westerners coming here all the time but that number is still very few compared to Taipei, Shanghai, Beijing or Hong Kong. In Shenzhen though people are used to foreigners so you won’t get too many strange reactions.
The city is perfectly safe. The only thing to worry about is a pickpocket or two. There is not much English spoken but after you learn one or two simple phrases you’ll have no problem getting about the city.
Simply put 90% of foreigners that come here and spend a little time living here have a great time.
Living
Shopping
Shopping Centres and Department Stores
Things are getting a lot better in Shenzhen for choice of quality department stores and western food sources. The Mix C is a new place opposite the Di Wang building on Shennan Road. The Mix is a modern shopping mall like you would find at home. It’s got lots of stores familiar to you, a huge ice rink, a cinema and a good grocery store in the basement.
For food Jusco, located in the basement of City Plaza on Shennan Rd is a good choice. It's not easy to get things like milk, cheese and western foods in Shenzhen but luckily Jusco has it all. Jusco also has house ware, clothing and sporting goods but for house ware it's cheaper to go to Walmart. There are a few Wal-Mart's, the one on Fuxing Rd is probably the best. There's also a Sam's Club to the west on Shennan Rd that sells western goods. It's a members only club but easy to join.
If you want to buy clothes City Plaza and The Mix have all the expensive brand names but Dongmen and Louhu offer cheap fakes. The easy alternative is to pop across the border into Hong Kong. In Hong Kong you can get pretty much anything, and maybe a bit more, you can get in Ireland. I would recommend Tsim Tsa Tsui or one of the big shopping malls on Hong Kong Island e.g. Pacific Place. Pacific Place has a Marks & Spencers.
Electronics and Computer Stores
For things like mobile phones, camera's, game consoles and MP3 players you should go to Hong Kong. Mongkok in Kowloon is the best place, particularly for cameras. The advantage of going to Hong Kong is better price, more choice, English speaking service, and English user guides. For the more expensive items there is a big price difference between Hong Kong and Ireland.
If you want to buy these things in Shenzhen then go to Hua Qiang Bei, City Plaza or The Mix. Hua Qiang Bei is cheapest. There are loads of electrical stores there. This is also a good place to pick up second hand mobile phones.
It's happy days after you have bought your XBOX or PSII in Hong Kong because you can buy pirated games everywhere in Shenzhen for about a dollar. Same story with DVDs... they go for as little as 60 euro cent each!
For house hold electrical goods... prices in all stores in Shenzhen are pretty similar so just go wherever is convenient. I would always choose Jusco cause it's a nice shopping environment.
Coffee Shops
The most popular place in town is Starbucks. The starbucks at City Plaza and The Mix are really popular and are always packed. Kosmo is a nice place to go if you’re looking for a some place a bit quieter and they have nice fruit juices too. There are a couple of Illy cafes too and some Haggen Daz cafes.
Miscellaneous
Louhu Commercial Centre located beside the train station is a great place to pick up all sorts of knock offs and unusual items. You can buy really cool reproductions or original oil paintings for anything between 30 and 200 euro. The art stores and tailors tend not to take the piss so much when quoting you a price so don't expect to bargain them down to much. On the other hand, when buying fake hand bags, clothes, watches etc it's buyer beware. They have big windows and they will see you coming. A rule of thumb is aim to pay a third or even as low as tenth of the price they first quote you. You can get some cool Chinese style stuff in Louhu too, like traditional Chinese clothes, scrolls, calligraphy works and paintings.
Cost of Living
Proximity to Hong Kong and it's booming economy combine to make Shenzhen possible the most expensive city in China but the good news is that it's still a lot cheaper than Ireland. Eating out is common and very cheap, beers in a restaurant are cheap but are pricey enough in a popular bars. Rent is cheap but rising fast and white goods are only a little cheaper than home.
A nice western style two bed furnished apartment in the city: 350 euro per month.
House Cleaner (2 times per week): 30 euro per month
Can of coke: 20 euro cent
Meal for one in a Chinese restaurant: 1 - 4 euro
Steak dinner in a western restaurant: 10 euro
Big Mac Meal: 2 euro
1 litre bottle of beer in a Chinese restaurant: 50 euro cent
33ml bottle of beer in a popular bar: 3 euro
Bottle of Absolut Vodka in a popular bar: 40 euro
15 minute taxi ride: 2 euro
Health Care
As a foreigner you are not entitled to national health insurance and you wouldn't want it anyway. You will need private medical insurance from a provider such as VHI Global or SOS International. Most foreigners here travel to Hong Kong or a private hospital for medical check ups and treatment.
SOS International have a private hospital in Shekou, a suburb west of Shenzhen.
Accommodation
Rented accommodation in Shenzhen includes the good, the bad and the ugly. Buildings are going up everywhere so there is lots of choice. Go for new apartment complexes. Most developments will have a management/sales/rental office. Just find a complex whose location you like and ask to be shown all the apartments up for rent. Chinese taste in furniture will be very different to yours so specify that you want western style furniture and bathroom and air-con in every room. Most developments are high rise. Choose a high floor to avoid street noise and mosquitoes. Most landlords will push you to sign for one year but 6 months is also possible. It's a buyers market so if you really like a place except for a paint job in one room or a tacky piece of furniture tell the owner and they might change it for you/
The best hotels are the Shangri-La located by the train station, The Sheraton located by the Futian Free Trade Zone or the Crowne Plaza in the west of the city. All are 5 star and will cost you at least 200 euro per night.
Transport
Hong Kong Airport is the best international gateway. You can get to and from the airport by Ferry, Bus or Train. From Hong Kong Airport to the centre of Shenzhen takes about 2 hours.
The metro opened up last December. It’s very nice and cheap but there is only one line built so far. This line runs along Shennan Road from Windows of the World to the train station. It’s all in Chinese too which is a bit of a pain when it comes to deciding which exit to take.
Scooters and motor bikes are banned from most main roads so they don’t work out as a handy way to get around. Cycling on the roads is pretty dangerous and it’s also just too hot in the summer.
Taxi's are cheap and plentiful and the best way to get around the city. During the day the meter starts at 1 euro 20 and this rises to 1 euro 60 at night. 3 euro will get you from most A's to most B's.
The driving and therefore the traffic here is appalling so it's unlikely you will want to drive yourself. An average of 4 people get killed on the roads of Shenzhen every day.
Entertainment
Sport & Recreation
Badminton is very popular among the Chinese and can be casually played in any park. Soccer is quite popular but the football grounds are quite expensive. There are pitches located all over the city. There is a nice all weather pitch with flood lighting and seating in Meilin district. You can rent a full or half pitch with some friends or if you are only 1 or 2 just show up and you will be invited to join in someone else's game. If you want to watch a game go to Shenzhen Stadium and watch Shenzhen Jianlibao compete in the national league. Shenzhen are one of the leading team in China.
There's also the option to join up with the Shenzhen Celts Gaelic Football Club. They play every Wednesday evening at 8:30 and Sundays at 2. The Shenzhen Celts are the biggest sports club for expats in Shenzhen. 16 different nationalities playing. See the Shenzhen Celts website for details.
If you like Ten Pin Bowling there is a big place down near the Crowne Plaza hotel or closer to the city centre at Hua Chang Bei. There's also a large amusement and water park near the Crowne Plaza hotel.
If running is your thing try the Hash House Harriers. Their spiritual home is the Snake Pit pub in Shekou. The Snake Pit has just moved to a new location in Sea World, Shekou. Look out for the Pizza Hut.
'Physical' is a chain of Gyms. The best is located in the basement of City Plaza on Shennan Rd. This is a very big, modern gym.
Hong Kong is a popular destination for hikers. Hong Kong has some really nice trails but are very crowded.
Restaurants
The Grey Wolf - Very popular Chinese restaurant serving lamb dishes typical in the North West of China. Not what you would typically think of as 'Chinese' and is a popular choice among westerners. They have some very tasty lamb and potato dishes. It's located around the corner from The Shanghai Hotel. About 6 euro per person including a few beers. Highly Recommended.
McCawley's Irish Pub & Restaurant - A friendly Irish bar serving the best western food in Shenzhen. It's hard to find really good western food here but McCawley's do a great job. The Beef and Guinness Pie is highly recommended. It's located at Shop 118, Sea World Complex, Shekou. Just off Taizi Road and opposite the Bank of China. About 10 euro for a main course and a beer. Highly Recommended.
Bavarian Restaurant - A German restaurant that serves a wide selection of western food. It’s a pity this place is always so quiet because the food is excellent and the restaurant itself very nice and comfortable (not always the case in China!). It’s located on Hong Li Road at the corner of Hong Li and Xiang Mei Road in Futian district. Ph: 0755 81832209. Highly Recommended.
True Colours (Dongmen) - Western restaurant with Chinese characteristics... basically meaning they don't quite get it right. There's a good jazz band playing in the background and the atmosphere is good. 8 euro for dinner and a beer. Located in Dongmen, 4th Floor, Friendship City Plaza, Jiefeng Lu, Corner of Renmin Gongyuan Lu, Dongmen. Recommended
Ding Tai Feng - The Shenzhen branch of Taipei's world famous dumpling restaurant. Dumplings are their speciality but they also have some other great dishes. A very Chinese experience. About 6 euro per person including a few beers. Located at west end of Zhen Hua Lu. Highly Recommended.
Little Sheep - Very popular Chinese hot pot restaurant located all over Shenzhen. About 5 euro with a beer. Located all over. Recommended.
Princes Kitchen - High end restaurant serving Cantonese, Japanese and Western food. Very nice and trendy decor. Tasty food but very pricey. One for the expense account. Anywhere from 20 - 200 per person including a few beers. Located 5th & 6th Floor, City Plaza, Shennan Rd. Recommended.
Henry J Beans - Tasty western food served in a comfortable environment, quite expensive though. The ribs are great. About 16 euro for dinner and a beer. Located in The Shangri-La Hotel, Louhu. Recommended
Subway - Serving subs you will know from home. About 4 euro for a 12 inch sub and a coke. Located at Taizi Square, Taizi Road, Shekou. Recommended.
Shenzhen Indian Kitchen - Indian restaurant. Nothing fancy but serves some great Indian food cooked up by Indian chefs. About 5 euro per person including a beer. Located at 42, Zhen Hua Lu. Recommended.
Bannana Leaf Curry House - Nice Thai restaurant with some tasty dishes. About 5 euro including a few beers per person. Located at 2 Floor, Hongzhan Plaza Dongmen, beside Pizza Hut. Recommended.
Bars
City Plaza – If you fancy a beer in a nice atmosphere where you can hear yourself and those around you go to City Plaza. Out front there are about 10 bars. The best are probably Bar Leo, Coko, Crystal and 3D. 3D would get our number one vote. Nothing special to look at but the staff are super friendly, they have beers from all over the world and it’s usually got a really good crowd. City Plaza is located on Shennan Road. In Chinese – Zhong Xin Guang Chang.
V Bar
- Popular bar with a very good live band and nice interior but it's very expensive. A beer costs 5 euro. Located at Crowne Plaza Hotel, 9026 Shennan Dadao, Overseas Chinese Town. Recommended.
U Bar - Very popular bar among expats and locals. Plays hip hop music, has a pool table and gets crowded at the weekends, popular pick up joint. Really kicks off around midnight and begins to die down around 3. Closes up around 5 or 6 depending how many punters are still propping up the bar. 3 euro for a bottle of beer, or a G+T. 40 euro for a bottle of vodka. Located on 3rd Floor of Ocena Pacific Plaza on Jiabin Lu. Highly recommended. Just ask the driver to take you to Tai Ping Sauna, Jia Bin Lu.
Class Club - Class club has recently arrived in town and has really raised the bar. no expense has been spared on the trendy interior, very stylish. Packed from midnight till about 6am. They play all kinds of dance music and host international DJs at the weekends. Lots of very beautiful girls. Just over 3 euro for a beer. Located on the 5th Floor of The Century Plaza Hotel, Louhu. Highly Recommended. Ask the driver to take you to Xin Du Jiu Dian.
True Colours - Very popular among locals. True Colours are located all over town. The Dongmen branch is the largest and plays Jazz in the restaurant, live band in the lounge and dance in the disco room. The branch at Guo Qi (located behind City Plaza) is a little different. It is very small, quite stylish and plays laid back Acid Jazz, Dance and Hip Hop. About 3 euro for a beer. Located all over. Recommended. Just ask the driver to take you to Dong Men de Ben Si Jiu Ba.
McCawley's Irish Bar and Restaurant - A proper pub with a regular friendly expat crowd. A good place to watch sporting events and serves cheap pints. About 1 euro 50 for a pint. Located at Shop 118, Sea World Complex, Shekou. Just off Taizi Road and opposite the Bank of China. Recommended.
Henry J Bean's
- Popular bar to begin Friday night straight after work. It's expensive though and has an annoyingly loud Philipino band. Located at The Shangri-La Hotel in Louhu. Recommended. Ask to go to Shang Ger Ri La Jiu Dian.
Chicago - Chinese style bar, playing Chinese style dance music, and very, very popular among locals. Very few westerners but reputed to be a good pick up joint if you can speak Chinese. Located in the basement of Shenzhen Stadium. Recommended. Ask to go to Shenzhen Ti Yu Guan.