Shanghai
'Whore of the Orient, Paris of the East' was how Shanghai 
was described in the 1920s and that pretty much sums up the place now following China’s re-opening up to the west and the rapid influx of foreign investment. A city of close to 20milion people, it’s a buzzing metropolis full off east-meets west confusion where just about anything is for sale.
Historically, Shanghai was a treaty port, which means that it was effectively carved up into concessions that were gifted to foreign governments. Each concession was built in the image of the country that governed it and the legacy of that is still very much in evidence, walking through the French, British, Japanese or Russian concessions can feel like a bizarre tourist trip as French villas, British government buildings and Russian orthodox churches mingle with neon lights and ultra modern skyscrapers.
Shanghai is a melting pot for foreigners and Chinese alike, as migrant Chinese from other provinces descend on the city in the hope of finding work along with the foreigners. The city is probably the most foreigner friendly in China and the locals are quite used to seeing white faces so you wont get too many stares or children running away in fear as you go about your business.
Living
Living in Shanghai can cost as much or little as you like. You can choose anything from cheap local eateries to Michelin starred French haute cuisine, with everything in between (even a good Irish stew). Living here can cost anything from 30 euro a week upwards (though 30 euro definitely wouldn’t include a good night out).
Getting around isn’t a problem, public transport is cheap, clean and efficient. A subway journey costs between 20 and 50 cents and is one of the best ways to get around, although it does get unbearably crowded at rush hour. Taxis are in abundance and generally cost no more than 2 euro to get from A to B within the city centre. A great way for getting around is to get a smart card, these cards can be topped up anywhere and work on all transport including taxis, busses, subway/trains and the ferry across the river (even McDonalds accepts them). The card is magnetic and you can keep it in your wallet or bag without ever taking it out, just wave it in the general direction of the scanner and your fare (or Happy Meal) is automatically deducted. It’s also an easy city to walk around as the streets don’t tend to be too wide and there’s always plenty to see. Just mind you don’t get run over by a cyclist.
Activity wise there’s plenty to do with English language cinemas, bowling alleys, golf courses (if you’re rich), sports clubs (including Shanghai Saints Gaelic Football), museums and theatres etc.
Climate-wise expect to slowly roast in your own sweat in summer and freeze in the winter, although spring and autumn are very pleasant and temperate.
Shopping can cost as much if not more than at home if you stick to the western supermarkets and designer label stores. However, if you walk 100 yards down from the Calvin Klein (or whichever) shop you can probably pick up the same clothes (made in the same factory) for a tenth of the price from a street vendor. Groceries bought in local shops and markets tend to be incredibly cheap although you’d want to keep an eye on the quality and DVDs and CDs can be purchased for about 80cents each (often before the movie’s even hit the cinema in Ireland). A definite highlight is the Xiangyang Market where anything from Louis Vuitton handbags to Prada swimming goggles can be bought on the cheap (expect to haggle furiously with old ladies who look at you like you just murdered their grandkids when you suggest a price too low).
Entertainment
Definitely one of Shanghai’s highlights is the nightlife. Although traditionally, Chinese people don’t tend to go out and party in the western sense, there are enough foreigners here as well as a forward thinking young Chinese generation to sustain a very busy night-club scene.
Fuxing Park
A French style park in the midst of the French concession housing some of the most popular clubs in Shanghai. Park 97, California club, Guandii can all be found in various villas dotted throughout the park. These clubs generally fly in DJs from Hong Kong on the weekend and usually get a ‘star’ dj from Europe or the US at least once a month. Stumbling out of one of these clubs at 6 in the morning into a park filled with 80 year-old Chinese people practising their morning Tai-Chi is one of the most bizarre Shanghai experiences you can have. Nearby is DKD on HuaHai Lu, currently the king of Shanghai’s late night trance scene. Expect to see lots of model-types wearing sunglasses on the dance-floor till 6am.
HengShan Road
Again in the French Concession, this is a strip of bars ranging from seedy to upmarket. Highlights include Sasha’s and Zapatta’s, on the corner of Dongping Lu, both housed in large villas and sharing a giant beer garden. Sasha’s is a pretty refined place whilst Zapatta’s is a thriving Mexican Club full of sweaty Corona toting lads chasing after screaming tequila soaked girls. Nearby are two of the city’s Irish bars, The Blarney Stone and O’Malley’s. Both are genuinely friendly places run by Irish guys doing great business and it’s the Blarney that’s managed to win the loyalty of the small but hard drinking Irish community.
XinTianDi
Shanghai’s Temple Bar (though much nicer and definitely minus the English Stag Parties). This is an old area of Shanghai located right in the city centre that’s been rebuilt brick by brick in the traditional ‘shikumen’ architectural style. It’s loaded with good restaurants, high-end shops and clubs. This place is a good spot for bar-hopping in the evening or chilling out on one of the terraces during the day.
The Bund
The Bund has been rejuvenated over the last two years and several of the old buildings have been given 5 star makeovers and turned into entertainment and dining centres. Chief among these are no. 3 and no. 18 on the Bund. Above the Armani store at no. 3 are Laris and Jean George restaurants, currently leading the way in fine dining in Shanghai (for those on expense accounts) whilst no. 18 hosts Sens and Bund restaurant and current nighttime favourite Bar Rouge. Bar Rouge is worth a visit for those new in town, professional stunt barmen entertain an international crowd and a huge terrace gives spectacular views of the Bund and Pudong skyline.
Those are just a small portion of the bars and clubs around Shanghai and there’s plenty more to choose from when you get here. Just get stuck into the listings magazines or the internet to find out what’s going on about town on any given night and look out for special events like cruise-boat parties on the river or beach parties in the summer. Pricewise, few places charge cover charge unless they have a guest DJ although you can pay anything from 1 to 7 euro for a drink. A good development recently is the number of clubs doing all you can drink for 100kuai (10 euro) on Friday’s and Saturday’s. They may not be the best places in town but they’re good places to get tanked up before heading on to the more upmarket clubs.
Things to See
The Bund
The Bund stretches along the banks of the Huangpu River in the centre of the city. The name refers to the stretch of historic buildings built by the British to house their banks, gentleman’s clubs, hotels and administration buildings on the East side of the river. On the other side of the River is the Pudong LuJiaZui CBD, looking like something from the Jetsons with its skyscrapers and the bizarre Oriental Pearl TV tower. In the evening, when fully lit up the Bund is an incredible sight, with the historic, well preserved colonial buildings to one side clashing with science fiction cartoon landscape on the other bank. If you’re looking to impress people, this is the place to do it. The Bund offers the most impressive restaurants in Shanghai at the likes of M on the Bund and 3 and 18 on the Bund, as well as some fancy bars with awesome views. If you take the Bund Tourist Tunnel under the river (one of the most psychedelic experiences in the city) you can find your way to the 87th floor of the JinMao tower and the Hyatt Hotel’s Cloud 9 Bar, complete with amazing view of the whole city. Just don’t forget your wallet.
People’s Square
Formerly a race track, People’s Square is now the main public plaza in the city. The Old Jockey Club now houses the Shanghai Art Museum and other buildings in the square include the Shanghai Museum, the Urban Planning Exhibition Centre and the Shanghai Theatre. The museums are well worth a look around if you have a day or two to spare.
The Old Town and Yu Garden
The old town has been preserved for close to 500 years. The old Chinese style wooden structures are clustered around a central market place and beautiful Chinese style garden that is open to the public. In the centre of the old town is a manmade lake with the ‘9 Turn Bridge’ and a teahouse perched on a small island. The teahouse has been visited by many world leaders and is worth a visit if you can battle your way though the crowds.
Other places of interest
Nanjing Road: Shopping and Neon Lights
HuaHai Road: Formerly Avenue Joffre in the Concession Days, now hosts high end shops and several ‘Western Markets’ selling Kellogs Cornflakes and the likes. Also near to Xiangyang Market if you get tired of looking at expensive price tags and decide to buy the same clothes for a tenth of the price.
Jade Buddha Temple: Buddhist Temple that houses an absolutely huge Jade Buddha (surprisingly).
Worthwhile Links
Smart Shanghai - Useful guide to clubs and bars and a what’s on guide.
City Weekend
Thats Magazines - Two English magazines with listings, guides, articles and classifieds for finding accommodation etc.